The set includes 4 rotors-2 front/2 Rear! Rotors can come in Silver finish or standard Black Zinc finish-leave a note at checkout. Free shipping on rotors here in the states-please call for across border shipping as we do ship internationally!!!!
In the racing world we are constantly trying to find the lightest, strongest, and smallest (yes I said smallest) brake rotor available---many theories and ideas have been tried to increase cooling/self cleaning/adding dimples/grooves/slots/holes/weight reduction/angled vanes and now even kangaroo paw's (I'm not joking!) to the rotors to increase braking efficiency. The basic idea is you want the lightest/strongest/smallest rotor available to get the job done---by reducing the rotor's size and weight the vehicle will benefit from increased performance off the corner, better pedal feel, increased life of hubs and wheel bearings and overall unsprung weight reduction.
However as performance/speeds increase the brakes start to retain heat/loose their effectiveness. We actually spend a fair amount of time at the track with pyrometers/temperature paint testing brake rotors/brake pad compounds trying to find the most effective combination. Often times in the Performance Touring type classes the larger brakes are not the answer and actually increase pedal effort, decrease feel/sensitivity, and lengthen overall stopping distances. In the more stock type racing classes we end up working with the stock dimension rotors and enhanced brake pad compounds/fluids (in addition to adequate brake cooling) to get the best results. We've found that on front wheel drive vehicles the front rotors are doing about 65% of the work (based on temperature tests/pad wear) and the manufactures have used a similar ratio as well---you'll find larger rotors/calipers in the front, smaller diameter rotors (and often solid)/calipers out back---common knowledge.
After driving the Veloster at the track I believe there is a lot of potential in the stock size brake components---and a lot of room for improvement/growth. With that said, I was driving the car at Willow Springs which is not particularly hard on the brakes, but I was during a few of the laps and experienced a bit of brake fade. Overall the cars fairly light and fairly well balanced for a fwd so working with the stock dimensions will yield good solid improvements.
First up would be the front rotors. The turbo got a larger front rotor right out of the box so good on Hyundai. We prefer slotted setup in the front to reduce warping and cracking. We've done mainly endurance roadracing over the last 10 years and have found that after many repetitive heat cycles the front rotors will develop cracks (during the 25 Hours of Thunderhill we had cracking after 13 hours and had to change fronts---and they we're cracked at the end of the event as well) while the slots will go 3 times as long (over 85 race ours before cracking). The rears are doing much less work so weight reduction is key---we've had rear crossdrilled rotors go years and never crack.
With all of this said your average streetcar/track day enthusiast will never have an issue with cracking and warping these rotors, in fact they have a lifetime warranty against both---lifetime warranty against cracking/warping!!! Here's a bit of info about the rotor's/design:
The advantage of the drilled and slotted brake rotors is the superior braking power you will experience over your stock brake system. Partially drilled dimpled holes dissipate heat without penetrating the brake pad surface and sacrificing brake disc strength. Fully extended curved scraper slots not only give you unbelievable stopping power but they also throw the dust away from your wheels keeping them cleaner. The brake rotor or disc is machined balanced and guaranteed to fit original equipment manufacturer specs without any brake modification.